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GIADA 2017 S/S Show Opens a Dialogue Between Modernity and History

GIADA unveiled Sep.25, 2016 its 2017 S/S collection in Milan. Ample swaths of colour interrupted by a bold graphic line: a homage to the solid fields of Barnett Newman’s canvasses.

A pictorial reference which Gabriele Colangelo translates into a rigorously fluid aesthetic; geometric minimalism in a series of sartorial details on garments which unfurl, one leading to the other, like a unique work of art. Though graphically composed, the collection is rendered organic thanks to the draping of the fabrics and their refined textures, by couture finishes and polyurethane prints. Monochromatic white and grey alternate with clay and forest green, illuminated by mango-orange pops of colour, to tinge light weight architecture which discretely reveals experimentation. Woven strings offer glimpses of the body as they run across dresses and outerwear like fissures. Or they run the entire length to the ground, pulling close thousands of strips of matte satin or delicate nappa leather with the impact of plissé.

The effect becomes one of embroidery when the light viscose knit is a mix of two different yarns, spliced together with micro seals, cut on the bias. Double-knit fabrics and ethereal double-folded organza, silk twill, candy crepe and plongé nappa leather, a vibrant Lurex ribbon: precious weaves that interpret the silhouette. Liquid linearity is at times disrupted by sudden draping, to be removed or kept depending on the attitude; unexpected folds bend across the surfaces towards new geometries. Below-the-knee lengths and above-the-knee trousers are to pair with outerwear and gilets which reveal overlapping vents in the back. Overlaid pleats are echoed on the leather handbag, fitted as a single piece. Elongated in the opposite direction, such structure defines it as a couture bucket bag. Metal ribbons and cast resin highlight hems, secure the movement of the draping, and close the cuffs like maxi gems with floating micro chains, while the belts lend a sculptural presence.

The second time collaborating with Pinacoteca di Brera, GIADA returned with its 2017 S/S collection presented inside Pinacoteca’s ancient and private Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense, established in 1770 by Queen Maria Theresa of Austria. The library houses the Queen’s own collection as well as various private collections in religion, philosophy, law and science. Queen Maria Theresa since her reign was known for her strong public persona that had evoked both esteem and affection. GIADA on the other hand promotes timeless femininity imbued with a sense of Italian artistry and flair. This time, GIADA opened a dialogue between women across generations.



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